A daybreak to nightfall meals path in Dindigul, the land of seeraga samba biryani

I’ve suitably skipped dinner the pervious evening in preparation for my Dindigul journey. An important tip to those that plan to go to the city on a meals tour: go on an empty abdomen. If doable, quick for per week earlier than you begin dreaming of seeraga samba biryani, for, you would possibly eat excess of you’ll be able to deal with. Dindigul, positioned rather less than 65 kilometres from Madurai, is the birthplace of Tamil Nadu’s seeraga samba biryani that’s now going locations. But there may be extra to the city than simply biryani. Here are our picks.

Lamb trotters for breakfast

In Dindigul, a number of eating places serve biryani from as early as 6am. I don’t yield to the temptation so early within the day, and take a look at one thing completely different. Bangaru Biryani, began in 1931 by Bangarusamy Naidu, has opened a brand new outlet on Round Road, serving biryani, idli and idiyappam with a variety of mutton and rooster sides for breakfast.

The small eatery that may seat no more than 12 folks, is being run by S Giridharan, nice grandson of the founder Bangarusamy. Giridharan’s father Subbrayalu Naidu skilled beneath the founder in his youthful years. A small framed photograph of Subbrayalu hangs on the wall, reverse which the menu is displayed. Okay Angusamy, the grasp, lays out a feast on a leaf: idiyappam, idli, lamp trotters soup, mutton chukka, vellai kuruma, naattu kozhi kulambu, and mutton milagu kulambu. There can also be a serving of mutton biryani and dalcha.

The mutton chukka alone, a dish of popcorn-sized boneless mutton slow-cooked with chilli powder and curry leaves, makes the journey worthwhile. The meat is tender, enveloped in a glistening layer of chilli-infused oil, punctuated by crisp curry leaves. It goes effectively with the idiyappam.

A point out have to be product of the creamy mutton vellai kuruma, a Dindigul staple. Angusamy explains that it has floor coconut, cashew nuts and roasted chana dal. This curry is the subsequent hottest dish is the city after biryani. It is gentle with a success of pepper, and may be had with idlis in addition to idiyappams and dosas.

How a lot biryani is an excessive amount of?

It is pure to really feel overwhelmed by the sheer variety of locations to eat biryani on the town. With three branches, Siva is the brand new favorite in Dindigul, and I perceive why. The oldest outlet, a hole-in-wall place at Begampur, is at all times packed. Venu, a couple of blocks away, serves first rate biryani too. But there’s something about Siva that makes it a tad higher.

The biryani is mild brown, with the rice cooked al dente. The spices are balanced — not like some eating places that go just a little overboard with cinnamon — and the meat is tender. For folks like me who grew up consuming Venu, Thalappakatti, and Ponram biryani, Siva’s is comparable and completely different on the similar time. A Mohan Raj, a relative of the founder Okay Ganesan, explains that the trick is to supply the suitable elements. While the restaurant has been round from 1989, it actually took off after the pandemic, with vacationers from Chennai, Bengaluru, and Coimbatore visiting the city only for their biryani.

“In 2023, a Japanese restauranteur got here to Dindigul for a week-long journey,” recollects Mohan. “He ate our biryani for lunch day-after-day, alternating it with kari dosai for dinner.” The 32-year-old doesn’t keep in mind his title nor did he perceive the visitor’s language. “But I do know that he went again joyful,” he says.

Warm, gooey halwa and jilebis

It is widespread observe for vacationers to cease at one of many candy retailers for its jilebis after their repair of biryani. Among the oldest such retailers is Jilebi Seshaiyer on Sandhai Road. Established within the Nineteen Sixties, the store is the brainchild of SK Seshaiyer, who initially bought sweets on pushcarts at numerous spots on the town. His jilebis steadily grew in recognition and as we speak, are served recent and mildly heat by way of the day.

A bit of the candy makes the palate joyful, and the proprietor R Bhuvaneshwari suggests we additionally strive the godhumai halwa. The sticky, chocolate-brown dessert is heat and drips with ghee.

Coffee with a aspect of potato masala

A savouries store in a small lane sells what’s arguably the oldest snack in Dindigul. Known as ‘Alwar kadai’, the store has been round for over 75 years, promoting combination, boondi, murukku, pakoda, amongst others. But I arrive there on the final leg of my journey for a style of its potato pottalam, a dish of boiled, mashed potatoes cooked with onions, turmeric and inexperienced chillies.

The proprietor SS Sathyanarayanan who’s seated on the counter, says gravely: “It shouldn’t be but 3pm.” The snack is on the market solely then, and will get bought out quickly after. Once the masala arrives from the kitchen, it’s packed as small dollops in banana leaves.

Just a little after 3.15pm, he gives a pottalam for me to strive. It is triangular — the wrapping provides option to heat, thick, potato masala folded in a banana leaf. It shouldn’t be too heavy flavour-wise, however could make for a pleasant snack to go together with espresso or tea from the various tea retailers on the town.

As for dinner, I resolve to make do with coconut water. But one can even do one other spherical at Ponram, Venu, Thalappakatti, and Bangaru, not essentially in that order.

How to get there

There are a number of trains from Chennai that cease at Dindigul, such because the Vaigai Express, Tirunelveli Vande Bharat Express, and Pothigai Express. Madurai is the closest metropolis with an airport, with common buses to and from Dindigul.