At the Bhitarkanika National Park, set sail and spot a crocodile

As we cool down comfortably on the solar deck of our luxurious catamaran, the MV Brahmani, we hear the shouts of the boat captain from down under. “Crocodile! Crocodile stress-free!” He nearly sounds too jubilant for having noticed the principally terror-inducing, but fascinating reptile. We look out over the waters on our proper and positive sufficient, spot our first crocodile. Much like us, the crocodile is sunning itself on the muddy banks of the river. 

The second largest mangrove system in India after the Sunderbans, the Bhitarkanika National Park, Odisha is house to many crocodiles within the creeks and estuaries of the Brahmani-Baitarani river techniques, in addition to migratory birds, and a bunch of different wildlife. While the park is accessible by highway, we’re exploring the area by water — on a luxurious catamaran by Antara River Cruises. 

The vessels come absolutely furnished with two bedrooms, loos and a eating house in entrance, along with the solar deck furnished with snug chairs. The boats are greatest fitted to teams of 4 (priced at ₹25,000 per particular person for 2 nights inclusive of meals) who will be accomodated within the two bedrooms. Locals from the world employees the fleet of 4 catamarans, and are solely too happy to speak about their favorite crocodile sightings. “There is one 23-foot crocodile that goes for a protracted morning swim. I hope all of you get to see it,” one in all them cheerily informs us. 

Declared a Ramsar web site (a wetland of nationwide significance) in 2002, we be taught that there are round 1,700 saltwater crocodiles that had been counted within the final census which occurred in January 2024. The dense mangrove right here includes 82 species and host birds by means of the yr which embrace purple herons, evening herons, pied harriers, grey-headed lapwings, eagles and owls. 

“There is one thing right here for everybody,” says Sanghamitra Jena, who manages operations. “Whether you’re right here to birdwatch and take photos, discover the wildlife, stroll by means of the forests, or just laze round on the catamaran and luxuriate in setting sail,” she says. As we take within the calm waters and orange hued skies at sundown, we stay alert, for sightings of extra crocodiles on the mudflats. We additionally spot herds of noticed deer frolicking by the banks, whereas additionally maintaining a watch out for attainable otter and dolphin sightings. 

When the catamaran lastly anchors for the evening, we’re immensely grateful for 2 issues — the air con onboard given the sweltering early summer season warmth, and bhetki fish on the menu for dinner. Bhetki, which is barramundi or Asian sea bass, is a well-liked fixture on the menu and all meals onboard characteristic recent catch and native delicacies, together with the favored Odisha dessert chennapooda. Three meals are served onboard, at a comfortable eating house in entrance of the rooms and the menu has the standard favourites — eggs, toast, poha, parathas for breakfast, roti, subzi and greens for lunch in addition to continental choices akin to grilled fish and mashed potatoes.

The prospect of recognizing extra crocodiles has us cautiously excited the next day, as we set sail and anchor close to the doorway of the Bhitarkanika National Park which homes the Crocodile Hatchery and Rearing Programme.

It is right here that we actually get to expertise the thick of all of it; strolling instantly into the mangrove forest by navigating a wood bridge that has been constructed to behave as a residing observatory deck. We hear chicken calls, preserve wanting up on the mangrove cover above us, and clutch the railings each time we check out what lies under. Unfortunately, the crocodiles stay elusive; none of them has ventured out to see a celebration of 10 cautiously stroll overhead. 

At our vacation spot nevertheless, there are a variety of child crocodiles in enclosures, swimming fortunately or sunning themselves. The Saltwater Crocodile Research and Conservation Project was established at Dangmal with the target of rearing and releasing crocodiles into the wild, and there are separate enclosures exhibiting the life-cycle of a crocodile from the hatching stage. The park can be house to a uncommon albino crocodile, named Gori, and we be taught that efforts to mate her have confirmed to be futile. Gori now lives by herself in an enclosure, an unbiased queen. 

With many little creeks and estuaries, we go on to discover the mangrove system in a smaller boat, by means of a sluggish, two-hour journey. Armed with binoculars, we spot birds within the branches of bushes, and far to our delight, handle to catch sight of a child crocodile peacefully sunning itself on a small department, earlier than gracefully turning over and falling straight into the water with a bit splash. 

The catamarans see a bulk of their vacationer company between October and February. “From May 1 to the top of July, the park is closed as a result of that’s the time the crocodiles sometimes breed. We see an inflow of birdwatchers and wildlife lovers begin coming in throughout August and later,” Sanghamitra says, as she guides us again to our catamarans. After a day of exploring the mangroves within the searing warmth and unabating humidity, we fortunately take the shikanji, a chilly lemon flavoured drink we’re welcomed again onboard with. 

Afternoons in the course of the cruise are greatest spent within the cool confines of the cabin, on the solar deck, or for the extra adventurous travellers, a jungle stroll at Shikhar Kothi, the place a cover of leaves and branches is a welcome defend from the warmth. We are instructed that recognizing snakes together with pythons are fairly frequent within the space.

When the catamaran as soon as once more units sail throughout sundown, the views don’t really feel repetitive or tiresome. There is a calmness that settles on the water because the skies flip orange after which a sluggish inky blue. We as soon as once more preserve our eyes educated on the mudflats, usually pausing to admire the smaller creeks and channels that we sail by. This languorous cruise is greatest loved on the solar deck, binoculars in a single hand for croc-spotting, and a plate of night pakodas and tea within the different. 

The author was on the Antara River Cruises, Bhitarkanika on invitation from RARE India 

Published – April 25, 2025 05:21 pm IST